First of all, let’s see the video of the heated print bed in action! This table is built for Type A Machine 3D printer, but it should works for all other printers… continue on yu.xueming.org
Update: my blog has moved! Check out yu.xueming.org
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Xueming Yu 
Hi XueMing,
How long do you keep the plate heated? Do you stop after the first layer or you let it on past that? What is the longest amount of time your heated bed was on continuously? Thank you so much for your help.
Regards,
Val
Hi Val
I keep the plated heated throughout a whole job. I once had it run for consecutive two days for a BIG job.
Best,
Xueming
I’m planning to build this table heater for my Mbot 3D. Do you have the schematics and code you used? Thank you for your help.
Attached a hand-drawn schematics for your quick reference as I didn’t have one. Code part is basically running a PID loop in the MCU. Depending on different MCU, PID implementation may change a lot, but the idea is simple. You should be able to find it anywhere online.
Thank you for clarifying the circuit. I will be using a Parallax Propeller microprocessor for control. It looks like it should be fairly easy. I will have an aluminum plate bonded to a borosilicate glass plate. I may use temperature hysteresis instead of the PID loop. It seems like it should produce similar results without having to calibrate the PID.
Two more quick questions:
1. Is that an ABS slurry on your plate?
2. Did you have to calibrate the temperature, or does it come out correctly from the control chip?
Thank you for your help. I appreciate it.
Regards,
Jim
1. Yes, I dissolve ABS scraps in acetone to make “slurry”.
2. No, temperature readout from MAX6675 is already calibrated.